Buying a used car is one of the smartest financial decisions you can make — but it comes with a hidden risk that most buyers overlook entirely: rust. Unlike a new vehicle straight from the factory with its fresh galvanizing and factory undercoating intact, a used car has already spent months or years exposed to moisture, road salt, UV rays, and environmental corrosion. The protective coatings are thinner, the paint may be chipped, and the undercarriage could already have early rust forming in places you can't even see.
The good news? Rust-proofing a
used car is absolutely possible — and it's one of the best investments you can
make to protect your vehicle's value, safety, and lifespan. In this guide,
we'll walk you through exactly how to rust-proof a used car in 5 simple steps,
explain the different types of rust-proofing treatments available, and reveal
the 7 best rust-proofing products you can order right now on Amazon to get the
job done at home.
Whether your used car is two
years old or twenty, this guide gives you the complete roadmap to keeping
corrosion away for years to come.
Why Used Cars Need Rust-Proofing More Than New Ones
Many people assume that
rust-proofing is only for new vehicles — something you add at the dealership on
the day of purchase. This is one of the most costly myths in car ownership.
Used cars actually need rust-proofing more urgently than new ones, for several
reasons:
•
Factory undercoating degrades over time — even the best
manufacturer-applied coatings thin, crack, and lose effectiveness after 3–5
years of road exposure
•
Stone chips and paint scratches accumulate — every chip
exposes bare metal directly to oxygen and moisture
•
Drain holes get clogged — blocked door and panel drains
allow water to pool inside body cavities, accelerating interior rust you'll
never see until panels rot through
•
Previous owner habits are unknown — a car that was
never washed in winter or regularly driven on salted roads may already have
significant hidden corrosion
•
Used cars often sit between owners — months sitting
unused allows moisture to settle and rust to advance without being washed off
The earlier you apply
rust-proofing after purchasing a used car, the more effective it will be. But
even on a vehicle with early surface rust, the right treatment program can stop
the corrosion in its tracks and protect the car for years to come.
💡 Pro
Tip: Before rust-proofing your used car, have it inspected by a mechanic on a
lift. Knowing exactly where rust already exists lets you treat those areas
first before sealing everything with undercoating.
The 4 Types of Rust-Proofing: Which Is Right for Your Used Car?
Not all rust-proofing products
and methods are the same. Understanding your options helps you build the most
effective protection program for your specific vehicle and climate.
Type 1 — Oil-Based Penetrating Sprays (Most Popular for Used Cars)
Oil-based penetrating sprays
like Fluid Film and Krown are the most popular and most effective rust-proofing
option for used cars. These thin, creeping liquids are sprayed onto the
undercarriage, into door cavities, inside rocker panels, and along frame rails.
Their low viscosity allows them to penetrate into seams, spot welds, and tight
crevices where rust most commonly begins — places a thick coating simply cannot
reach.
•
Best for: Used cars with existing surface rust,
vehicles in cold/salty climates
•
Longevity: Requires annual reapplication — treat as a
yearly maintenance task
•
Coverage: Entire undercarriage + door cavities + wheel
wells
•
DIY-friendly: Yes, with an aerosol can and extension
wand
💡 Pro
Tip: Oil-based sprays are the only rust-proofing type that can penetrate into
existing surface rust and slow its spread from the inside out. For used cars
with early corrosion, they're the best first line of defense.
Type 2 — Rubberized Undercoating (Thick Protective Shell)
Rubberized undercoating is the
classic thick, black spray coating applied to the underside of vehicles. It
creates a durable physical barrier against stone chips, moisture, and road
grime. However, modern research has shown that rubberized coatings can crack
over time and — critically — when they crack, they trap moisture between the
coating and the metal, actually accelerating hidden rust. A 2009 Toyota
technical bulletin specifically warned that rubberized undercoatings may
shrink, crack, and promote corrosion by trapping salt and moisture.
•
Best for: New cars or freshly sandblasted, rust-free
metal surfaces
•
Weakness: Cannot penetrate seams and crevices; cracks
trap moisture over time
•
Longevity: 2–5 years before cracking begins
•
DIY-friendly: Yes, with spray cans or undercoating gun
⚠️ Watch Out: Do not apply rubberized
undercoating over existing rust on a used car. The coating will seal rust in
place and hide it, allowing it to advance silently behind the coating until it
causes structural damage.
Type 3 — Rust Converter Coatings (For Treating Existing Rust First)
Rust converters like Corroseal
and POR-15 are applied directly to rusted metal surfaces before any protective
coating. They chemically react with iron oxide, converting it to a stable,
inert compound (magnetite or iron tannate) that cannot continue corroding. This
step is essential on used cars with any visible rust before applying a topcoat
or undercoating.
•
Best for: Used cars with scale rust or pitted metal
before sealing
•
Must be applied BEFORE any undercoating or primer
•
Longevity: Permanent once applied — seals the treated
area indefinitely
•
DIY-friendly: Yes, brush or spray application
Type 4 — Wax and Paint Sealants (Paint Surface Protection)
The exterior paint surface of
your used car is its first line of defense. A high-quality automotive wax or
synthetic paint sealant creates a hydrophobic barrier that repels water,
prevents iron particles from embedding in the paint, and protects against UV
degradation that causes paint to become porous and vulnerable. Apply wax or
sealant twice per year for maximum protection.
•
Best for: Exterior paint protection on all vehicles
•
Longevity: 3–6 months for wax; 6–12 months for
synthetic sealant
•
Combine with clay bar decontamination for maximum
adhesion
•
DIY-friendly: Yes, hand or machine application
How to Rust-Proof a Used Car in 5 Simple Steps
Follow this proven sequence for
the best results. Each step builds on the last — skipping steps reduces the
effectiveness of your entire rust-proofing program.
Step 1 — Inspect and Document All Existing Rust
Before applying any product, you
need a clear picture of your used car's current rust situation. Take the car to
a well-lit area, get on the ground with a flashlight, and inspect:
•
Undercarriage — frame rails, cross members, floor pan,
exhaust hangers
•
Wheel arches and inner fender liners
•
Door bottoms and rocker panels (press firmly — soft
spots indicate interior rust)
•
Trunk floor and spare tire well
•
Engine bay frame rails and firewall
•
Exterior paint for chips, bubbles, and rust spots
Take photos of every rust spot
found. Categorize each as surface rust (light discoloration), scale rust
(rough, pitted texture), or penetrating rust (soft metal or holes). This
determines whether you need rust treatment before rust-proofing.
💡 Pro
Tip: If you find penetrating rust on frame rails or structural components,
consult a body shop before rust-proofing. Sealing over structural rust without
repair is unsafe.
Step 2 — Thoroughly Clean and Degrease the Entire Undercarriage
Rust-proofing products bond
poorly to dirty or greasy surfaces. A thorough undercarriage cleaning is
essential before applying any treatment. For the best results:
1.
Take the car to a pressure wash bay and use the
high-pressure wand on the full undercarriage, wheel wells, and door sills.
Focus on removing caked-on mud, salt residue, and loose rust flakes.
2.
Allow the car to dry completely — ideally in the sun
for 2–4 hours or in a heated garage. Moisture trapped under rust-proofing
products defeats their purpose.
3.
Apply a degreaser (such as Simple Green or a dedicated
automotive degreaser) to the undercarriage to remove oil and road film. Rinse
and dry again.
4.
Use a wire brush to knock off any loose, flaking rust
from heavily corroded areas. You don't need to get down to bare metal, but
loose scale must be removed for products to bond.
A clean surface allows
penetrating oil sprays to creep into seams properly and allows rust converter
to make full chemical contact with the iron oxide it needs to treat.
Step 3 — Treat All Existing Rust with Rust Converter
If your inspection in Step 1
found any existing rust — even light surface rust — treat it before applying
any protective coating. This is the most commonly skipped step and the most
important one for used cars.
Apply Corroseal, POR-15 Prep
& Ready, or a similar rust converter to all rusted areas using a brush.
Work the product into pitted surfaces and seams. Allow to cure fully per
product instructions (typically 20–30 minutes for Corroseal; longer for POR-15).
The treated areas will turn dark grey or black — this is the stable iron
tannate or magnetite compound that has replaced the reactive iron oxide.
For body panel rust spots on the
exterior, refer to our full guide: How to Remove Rust from Car Body Panels at
Home (Post #1 on RustBeat.com).
⚠️ Watch Out: Never apply rubberized
undercoating or oil spray over untreated scale rust. You'll seal moisture and
salt into the rust, making it advance faster in a hidden environment.
Step 4 — Apply Oil-Based Penetrating Rust-Proofing Spray to the
Undercarriage
This is the core of your used
car rust-proofing program. Using an oil-based penetrating spray — Fluid Film,
Krown, or a comparable product — apply a thorough coat to the entire
undercarriage, working methodically from front to back.
For aerosol application at home:
5.
Purchase Fluid Film aerosol cans with the long
extension wand attachment — this allows you to spray directly into frame
cavities, door sills, and rocker panels through existing holes
6.
Raise the car on ramps or a jack with jack stands for
full undercarriage access
7.
Spray all frame rails, cross members, floor pan seams,
and suspension attachment points
8.
Inject into door drain holes (bottom of each door) to
coat the interior of door panels
9.
Spray inside rocker panels through factory access holes
10. Coat
wheel wells and inner fender liners
11. Apply
to the firewall seam and any other areas where panels join
The goal is to get the product
into every seam, weld, and cavity where moisture can accumulate. A single
aerosol can may not be sufficient for a thorough application — budget for 2–4
cans for a complete undercarriage treatment of a sedan; more for a truck or
SUV.
💡 Pro
Tip: Do the application in the morning and park the car in your garage or on
gravel for 24–48 hours after treatment. Oil spray will drip for the first day
or two as it settles — this is normal and expected with penetrating formulas.
Step 5 — Protect the Exterior Paint and Establish a Maintenance Schedule
Rust-proofing a used car is not
a one-time task — it's a maintenance program. After treating the undercarriage,
turn your attention to the exterior:
•
Apply a ceramic coating, synthetic paint sealant, or
high-quality carnauba wax to all painted exterior surfaces. This seals paint
against moisture intrusion through micro-scratches and chips
•
Touch up all stone chips and paint scratches
immediately using your car's color-matched touch-up paint — every chip is a
direct pathway to rust
•
Check and clear all door drain holes — the small holes
at the bottom of each door. Blocked drains allow water to pool inside door
panels and cause hidden interior rust
•
Apply a rubber trim protectant to all door seals and
weatherstripping to prevent cracking that would allow water infiltration
•
Install high-quality rubber floor mats to prevent
interior moisture from soaking through to the floor pan
Then establish your annual
maintenance calendar:
•
Every 12 months: Reapply oil-based penetrating spray to
the full undercarriage
•
Every 6 months: Apply exterior wax or paint sealant
•
Every 3 months: Inspect for new rust spots, stone
chips, and blocked drains
•
Every wash: Use an undercarriage rinse setting to
remove road salt — especially important in winter months
🛒 7 Best Rust-Proofing Products for Used Cars on Amazon (2025)
These are the top-rated, most
trusted rust-proofing products available on Amazon — used by professional
detailers, fleet managers, and DIY car owners across the country. Each one
covers a specific part of the rust-proofing program outlined in the 5 steps
above.
1. Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Protection — Best Overall Undercoating
Spray
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5)
Penetration:
★★★★★ (5/5 — creeps into all seams and cavities)
Longevity:
★★★★☆ (4/5 — requires annual reapplication)
Format:
Aerosol Spray (11.75 oz) or 1-Gallon Can | Type: Lanolin-based Oil Spray
Best
For: Full undercarriage treatment, door cavities, rocker panels | Available: Amazon
Fluid Film is the undisputed
king of DIY rust-proofing and has been protecting vehicles for decades. Its
lanolin-based formula is solvent-free, non-drying, and stays permanently fluid
— meaning it never cracks or becomes brittle. This constant mobility allows it
to continue creeping into seams and spot welds over time, providing ongoing
protection that rigid coatings cannot match. In a 6-year long-term user test
reported on automotive forums, vehicles treated annually with Fluid Film showed
almost no rust compared to identical untreated vehicles.
Forum communities in the Rust
Belt and Great Lakes regions consistently rate Fluid Film as their top annual
undercoating choice. Available as an aerosol spray (great for DIY with the
extension wand) or in gallon cans for spray gun application.
•
Solvent-free, non-toxic, biodegradable — safe for
enclosed garage use
•
Penetrates deep into seams and spot welds where rust
starts
•
Permanently fluid — never cracks, dries out, or becomes
brittle
•
Available in standard and black versions (black for a
cleaner look on dark undercarriages)
• Amazon Best Seller in Automotive Rust Inhibitors — thousands of 5-star review
2. Krown Rust Inhibitor — Best Penetrating Oil Spray for Used Cars
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5)
Penetration:
★★★★★ (5/5 — exceptional creeping ability)
Longevity:
★★★★☆ (4/5 — annual reapplication required)
Format:
Aerosol 14oz (6-pack) or 1-Gallon Can | Type: Petroleum-based Oil Spray
Best
For: Full undercarriage rust-proofing, electrical connections,
moving parts | Available: Amazon
Krown is Canada's #1 rust
protection brand and has been protecting vehicles since 1986 — including
Canadian Army vehicles, where it passed rigorous military testing that
evaluated creep, penetration, water displacement, and lubrication. The
petroleum-based formula stays permanently fluid like Fluid Film, with a
self-healing property that allows it to close over abrasions and maintain a
continuous barrier. Unlike Fluid Film, Krown also lubricates moving parts —
door hinges, locks, cable systems — providing a maintenance bonus alongside
rust protection.
Krown treats over 300,000
vehicles per year through its professional service network. For DIY use, the
14oz aerosol 6-pack on Amazon provides a full undercarriage treatment for most
vehicles.
•
Self-healing formula maintains continuous protection
even after minor abrasions
•
Exceptional 'creeping' ability — penetrates into the
tightest seams and spot welds
•
Also lubricates door locks, hinges, cable systems, and
electrical connections
•
No solvents, non-flammable, environmentally friendly
• Trusted by the Canadian Army — passed military corrosion protection testing
3. Corroseal Rust Converter & Metal Primer — Best Rust Treatment Before
Sealing
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5 — permanent rust conversion)
Ease
of Use: ★★★★★ (5/5)
Value:
★★★★★ (5/5)
Format:
Liquid (Brush or Roller Application)
| Type:
Rust Converter + Metal Primer (2-in-1)
Best
For: Pre-treatment of existing rust on used car undercarriage and
body |
Available: Amazon
Before sealing any rust on a
used car, you must neutralize it. Corroseal is the best product for this
critical pre-treatment step. Its two-in-one formula simultaneously converts
iron oxide into stable magnetite AND lays down a latex metal primer coat, eliminating
a full step from the process. Used by the US Navy for marine rust abatement
applications, it's one of the most thoroughly tested rust converter products
available. Apply it to any rusted surface before Fluid Film, undercoating, or
primer. Amazon #1 bestseller in the corrosion inhibitor category.
•
Converts rust to stable magnetite in a single
application
•
Simultaneously lays down a metal primer coat — two
steps in one
•
US Navy-approved for marine rust abatement applications
•
Water-based, low VOC — indoor-safe application
• Available in quart and gallon sizes for large undercarriage treatment
4. POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating — Best Permanent Sealer for Rust-Proofing
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5 — impenetrable long-term seal)
Ease
of Use: ★★★☆☆ (3/5 — requires careful application)
Longevity:
★★★★★ (5/5 — permanent application)
Format:
Brush-on Coating | Type: Hard
Rust Encapsulator Coating
Best
For: Frame rails, chassis, wheel wells — permanent rust barrier | Available: Amazon
For areas where you want
permanent, never-touch-again protection — frame rails, structural members,
floor pans, wheel wells — POR-15 is in a class of its own. This hard,
paint-like coating dries to an impenetrable shell that moisture, oxygen, road
salt, and chemicals simply cannot penetrate. It does not crack, chip, peel, or
bubble. Apply Corroseal first to convert any existing rust, then brush on
POR-15 over the top for a sealed result that lasts the life of the vehicle.
Classic car restorers have trusted POR-15 for decades for exactly this reason.
•
Rock-hard finish — does not crack, chip, peel, or
bubble under any conditions
•
Can be applied over light surface rust after Corroseal
pre-treatment
•
UV-stable topcoat available separately for
exterior-visible applications
•
Available in gloss black, silver, clear, and chassis
coat colors
• Trusted by military vehicle restorers, classic car collectors, and professional shops
5. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Aerosol — Best DIY Spray for Frame and
Chassis
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5)
Ease
of Use: ★★★★★ (5/5 — aerosol format, no mixing)
Value:
★★★★☆ (4/5)
Format:
Aerosol Spray (15 oz) | Type: Rust
Encapsulator Coating
Best
For: Frame rails, undercarriage, wheel wells — easy aerosol
application | Available: Amazon
Eastwood is one of the most
trusted names in the automotive restoration community, and their Rust
Encapsulator Aerosol brings POR-15-level rust sealing into a convenient spray
can format. The quick-drying formula offers UV resistance and heat resistance up
to 400°F — making it suitable for exhaust-adjacent areas where other products
would fail. Apply directly over rust or prepped metal for a hard, durable
barrier that stops corrosion permanently. Perfect for the DIYer who wants
POR-15 quality results without brush application.
•
Aerosol format — no brush, no mixing, no mess
•
UV resistant and heat resistant up to 400°F
•
Quick-drying formula — tack-free in under 30 minutes
•
Apply over rust or bare metal for lasting protection
• Available individually or as a 2-pack for full undercarriage coverage
6. B'laster Surface Shield Rust Prevention Spray — Best Annual Undercoating
Spray
Effectiveness:
★★★★☆ (4/5)
Ease
of Use: ★★★★★ (5/5)
Value:
★★★★★ (5/5 — 6-pack value)
Format:
Aerosol Spray (6-Pack) | Type: Lanolin-Based
Undercoating Spray
Best
For: Annual undercoating maintenance, budget-conscious buyers | Available: Amazon
B'laster Surface Shield is the
best value annual undercoating spray on Amazon. Using a lanolin-based formula
similar to Fluid Film, it creates a lasting water-resistant protective layer
that inhibits rust and corrosion from moisture and weather exposure. The 6-pack
format makes it cost-effective for full undercarriage treatment with aerosol
cans, and up to 2-year corrosion protection is claimed per application. An
excellent budget-friendly alternative to Fluid Film for annual rust-proofing
maintenance on used cars.
•
Lanolin-based formula — similar chemistry to Fluid Film
at lower cost
•
Up to 2-year corrosion protection per application
•
6-pack format — enough for full undercarriage treatment
•
Also lubricates components to reduce squeaks and
sticking
• Perfect for budget DIY annual rust-proofing maintenance
7. CARPRO IronX Iron Remover — Best Paint Decontamination for Rust
Prevention
Effectiveness:
★★★★★ (5/5 — on paint decontamination)
Ease
of Use: ★★★★★ (5/5)
Value:
★★★★☆ (4/5)
Format:
Spray (33.8 oz / 1 Liter)
| Type:
pH-Neutral Iron Remover
Best
For: Exterior paint decontamination before waxing/sealing | Available: Amazon
Rust-proofing a used car isn't
only about the undercarriage — the exterior paint surface needs decontamination
before any wax or sealant can properly bond and protect. CARPRO IronX is a
professional-grade iron remover that dissolves brake dust and airborne iron
particles embedded in your car's paint — particles that cause paint to rust
from within and compromise any wax or ceramic coating applied over them. The
formula turns vivid purple on contact with iron, visually showing where
contamination is hiding. Use it as the first step in your exterior protection
routine before clay bar treatment, polishing, and wax application.
•
Dissolves embedded iron particles and brake fallout
from paint surfaces
•
pH-neutral — safe on all paint types, clear coats, and
ceramic coatings
•
Color-activating formula turns purple on contact with
iron contamination
•
Use before clay bar for the deepest paint
decontamination possible
• 1-liter size with sprayer — professional-grade volume for full-car treatment
Quick Comparison: All 7 Products at a Glance
|
Product |
Type |
Use In Steps |
Longevity |
Amazon Rating |
|
Fluid Film |
Oil Spray
(Lanolin) |
Step 4 —
Undercoating |
1 year
(annual) |
⭐ 4.7 / 5 |
|
Krown |
Oil Spray
(Petroleum) |
Step 4 —
Undercoating |
1 year
(annual) |
⭐ 4.6 / 5 |
|
Corroseal |
Rust Converter
+ Primer |
Step 3 — Rust
Treatment |
Permanent |
⭐ 4.8 / 5 |
|
POR-15 |
Hard
Encapsulator |
Step 3+4 —
Seal & Protect |
Permanent |
⭐ 4.8 / 5 |
|
Eastwood
Encapsulator |
Aerosol
Encapsulator |
Step 4 — DIY
Spray Seal |
Permanent |
⭐ 4.6 / 5 |
|
B'laster
Shield |
Lanolin Spray |
Step 4 —
Budget Option |
Up to 2 years |
⭐ 4.5 / 5 |
|
CARPRO IronX |
Iron Remover
Spray |
Step 5 — Paint
Decon |
Per treatment |
⭐ 4.7 / 5 |
How Much Does Rust-Proofing a Used Car Cost?
One of the biggest advantages of
DIY rust-proofing is the dramatic cost savings over professional services.
Here's a realistic cost breakdown:
Professional Rust-Proofing Service
•
Basic oil spray undercoating (Krown or equivalent):
$150–$200 per year
•
Full rust-proofing treatment with cavity injection:
$300–$500 per year
•
Dealer-applied rubberized undercoating (one-time):
$400–$800
DIY Rust-Proofing (Amazon Products)
•
Fluid Film aerosol 6-pack (full undercarriage): $40–$60
•
Corroseal rust converter quart (pre-treatment): $25–$35
•
POR-15 quart (frame sealing): $30–$45
•
Eastwood Encapsulator 2-pack (chassis coating): $25–$35
•
CARPRO IronX 1L (paint decontamination): $25–$35
Total DIY first-year cost:
approximately $120–$180 — less than one professional annual treatment, with
professional-grade results. Annual maintenance after year one runs just $40–$60
for Fluid Film reapplication.
💡 Pro
Tip: Buy the Fluid Film gallon can plus a cheap undercoating spray gun from
Amazon if you plan to do multiple vehicles or detailed cavity injection work.
The setup pays for itself on the first full treatment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it too late to rust-proof a used car that already has rust?
No — it's never too late to
start rust-proofing. Even a used car with existing surface rust benefits
enormously from treatment. The key is to treat existing rust first with a
converter (Corroseal or POR-15), then apply your protective coating or oil spray.
Professional rust-proofers routinely treat vehicles that have been on the road
for years and the treatment significantly slows or stops further corrosion.
How long does rust-proofing last on a used car?
It depends on the product type.
Oil-based penetrating sprays like Fluid Film and Krown require annual
reapplication and last 12 months. Hard encapsulators like POR-15 and Eastwood
Rust Encapsulator are permanent — one application lasts the life of the vehicle
when properly applied. Exterior wax lasts 3–6 months; synthetic paint sealants
last 6–12 months.
Should I rust-proof a used car before or after buying it?
Ideally before winter arrives.
If you buy a used car in fall, rust-proof it immediately before the salt season
begins. If you buy mid-summer, you have time for a thorough cleaning and
inspection before treatment. Don't wait — every additional winter without
rust-proofing on a used car accelerates existing corrosion.
What is the best DIY undercoating for a used car?
Fluid Film is the most highly
rated DIY undercoating for used cars based on its penetration ability, safety,
and long-term community testing results. For used cars with existing rust,
apply Corroseal first to convert the rust, then follow with Fluid Film
annually. For permanent frame sealing, combine Corroseal with POR-15.
Can I rust-proof a used car myself without a lift?
Yes — ramps are sufficient for
most DIY undercoating work. Drive the front wheels onto ramps for front
undercarriage access, then reverse onto ramps for the rear. For full access
including rocker panels and wheel wells, jack stands on all four corners give
the best working clearance. Use the long extension wand with Fluid Film aerosol
cans to reach cavities and frame rails without needing to crawl under the
vehicle.
Does rust-proofing affect car value?
Yes — positively. A
well-documented rust-proofing history (receipts from annual Krown treatments,
for example) can increase a used car's resale value because it provides buyers
with confidence in the vehicle's corrosion status. A rust-proofed undercarriage
that remains clean after 10 years is a clear sign of proactive maintenance —
something used car buyers pay a premium for.
RustBeat.com — Your #1 Resource for Rust Removal, Rust-Proofing & Car Corrosion Control
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